Toba in View
"...It was growing late when we stopped to greet a man vigorously paddling a dugout solu in the opposite direction to us. He said he was in a hurry to get home before dark, and he waved his hand in the air, looking up and all around, drawing our attention to the sky. It was dimming, but not dark yet.
He may have been in a hurry, but he was curious about our kayaks. Stopped, he took the opportunity to smoke the lit cigarette he held in his hand while he paddled. As he took long slow drags on it, the distinctive scent of cloves wafted across the water.
Smoking, especially the clove-scented kretek, is said to have become ingrained in Indonesian culture ever since the Dutch established tobacco plantations in the 1800s. Indonesia, one of the world’s biggest tobacco producers, has one of the highest percentages of smokers to non-smokers in the world. "